There was a 28 euro toll on the drive to
Nantes but we were there for the opening weekend of the “Voyage to Nantes.”
The first thing we found in Nantes was a demonstration for the reunification of Brittany. I wouldn’t normally include this here, but I was able to video a remarkable musical event:
While the
Musee des Beaux Arts was closed for renovation, they hosted a show of work by Fernand Leger in the
Chapelle de l’oratoire:
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Adieu New York by Fernand Léger,1946 |
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La feuille verte by Fernand Leger, 1945 |
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La joconde aux clés by Fernand Léger, 1930 |
Included in the exhibit was a photo from 1942 showing the artists that participated in the "Artists in Exile" show in NYC. Sitting there right next to Leger, Marc Chagel, Piet Mondrian, Jacques Lipchitz, Max Ernst and Yves Tanguy, was our new friend Ossip Zadkine (second from left, with pipe):
Then we found some of the public art that was the Voyage. At the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany we found this piece by Chapel Hill artist,
Patrick Dougherty:
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Enseignes rue du chateau by Patrick Dougherty
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Also outside was this piece by
Aida Makoto:
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The Non-Thinker by Aida Makoto |
Inside the castle was another piece of his:
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Jumble of 100 flowers by Aida Makato, 1965 |
Also in the castle was an exhibition of all things Samurai.
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Le Lieu Unique |
At
Le Lieu Unique (a former biscuit factory) and now an art center, there were a couple of shows, including:
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Memoria by Anne & Patrick Porier |
Then we found more of the
Voyage to Nantes:
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Resolution des Forces en Presence by Vincent Mauger |
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Aire de Jeux by Kinya Maruyama |
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Bateau-Lavoir by Francois Delaroziere |
This colorful installation was done at the Theatre Graslin by
Elsa Tomkowiak:
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Elsa Tomkowiak at Theatre Graslin |
Then there was the
Villa Ocupada where twenty artists from all over Europe and Latin America come together for one month and make a remarkable transformation:
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Niem |
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Derlon |
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Fefe Talavera |
CLICK HERE FOR MORE.
Young Jules Verne and Captain Nemo were done by
Elisabeth Cibot in 2005. Nantes is Verne’s birthplace.
Here are a couple more:
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L'Epave by Paul Auban, 1926 |
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Lunar Tree by Mrzyk & Moriceau |
We found another beautifully carved carousel:
And the great Elephant, which may be art:
Here are a few more shots from the
Isle of Nantes:
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La Fabrique |
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Batiment B |
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Le Balapapa by Pierre-Yves Arcile & Benoit Moreira |
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Les Mues by Huang Yong Ping |
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Huit Chevaux de Leonard de Vinci Dechirant un Porte-Avons by Huang Yong Ping, 2004 |
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Les Anneaux by Daniel Buren & Patrick Bouchain |
While I find many of the storefronts to be works of Art,
La Cigale (which means “cicada”) is truly a masterpiece:
The
Voyage to Nantes includes artworks all along the Loire River to Saint Nazaire. We found only this one in
Saint Nazaire, viewed from the top of a former German submarine base:
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Suite de Triangles by Felice Varini, 2007. |
But also this:
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Le Voyage de la Sirene by Federica Matta, 2001 |
We were able to find this monument sculpted by
Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney in 1917, as the 87th Infantry Division Memorial:
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87th Infantry Division Memorial by Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, 1917 |
And we found a couple more along the way:
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by Jean-Paul Moscovino, 1995 |
Our next destination was the
Gulf of Morbihan. The largest city there is
Vannes, where we found the
Musee de Beaux Arts called
La Cohoe. Outside and inside were these pieces by
Alain Krili:
There was a variety of artworks:
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Les Pataugeuses by Joseph-Felix Boucho |
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works by Genevieve Asse |
Then we drove north to the
Domaine de Kerguehennec near Bignac. It was raining pretty hard, but not enough to prevent us from exploring the grounds, looking for sculptures. Here are a few we found:
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Au bout by Rainer Gross, 2011 |
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Sentier de Charme by Giuseppe Penone, 1986 |
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Sept colonnes à Stéphane Mallarmé, 1967-71 |
CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE.
Inside the chateau was a tribute to the
Fondation Maeght. There were paintings by a wide variety of artists from Eduardo Chilida to Pierre Alechinsky. Photos not allowed but here are a few I found online:
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Collage by Eduardo Chillida, 1969 |
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Le partage des eaux by Pierre Alechinsky, 1991 |
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Sans titre by Bram Van Velde, 1966 |
It was still raining when we hiked out.
The region around the Gulf of Morbihan is rich with Neolithic sites; dolmen and menhirs. While not strictly Art, we visited quite a few.
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Tumulus du Rocher Kernours, Le Bono |
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Dolmen du Mane Rethual |
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Dolmen des Pierres Plates, Locmariaque |
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Tumulus du Mane er Hroech |
We also took a trip to
Le Pouldu and
Pont Aven. It seems Paul Gauguin went to paint in Le Pouldu in 1889. And stayed here:
These are some of the views.
On the way to Pont Aven, we came across this yard in
Riec-sur-Belon:
Pont Aven is the place we had always associated with
Paul Gauguin, as well as hundreds of artists that had been going there since the 1860’s. It is a beautiful place filled with rivers, streams and mill-runs providing many scenes to paint:
And over 60 galleries:
Then up through the
Bois d’Amor to the
Tremelo, known as the chapel of the yellow Christ which inspired Gauguin’s painting
The Yellow Christ.
There were also many interesting carved features:
Back in
Arradon, we walked into town for a free concert. The first act was called
Ventilator – The Band That Burns. They were quite entertaining.
Here are a couple of videos: video 1, video 2, video 3, video 4
Then we were off to
Rennes.
With no art festivals, we did not really know what to expect from Rennes, but we were not disappointed. On our first walk around we found an interesting exhibition at the base of a waterfall in a beautiful park:
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Jardin du Thabor |
Chantiers d’Art was images of ten works about water by women artists, mounted for display.
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Anne-Francoise Taillard |
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Eliane Belot |
There was, as usual, Art everywhere:
We took a bus to the north of the city to F.R.A.C. Bretagne, one of the regional contemporary Art centers:
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Alignement du XXI e siècle by Aurelie Nemours |
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Rennes-Montparnasse by Jacques Villegle, 1987 |
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Courant d'espair, vertical by Harald Klingelholler, 1995 |
Back in town, we soon found
L'Cree Center for Contemporary Art. It was really just a room off the the old market building, but had an interesting display of plexiglass sculptures by
Amalia Pica:
And a video she made for the
Venice Biennial:
The Musee des Beaux Arts was the biggest surprise, with paintings by La Tour, Picasso, Gauguin and more. And some unusual placements:
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Le Reniement de saint Pierre by George de la Tour
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Baigneuse a Dinard by Pablo Picasso, 1928 |
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Vase de fleurs by Paul Gauguin, 1878 |
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(center) Le grand casque by Yves Laloy, 1951-52 |
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La Nona Ora by Maurizio Cattelan, 1999 |
Here are a few scenes from around town:
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Isabelle Brisset |
We went to Rennes for the
Tombees de la Nuit which was presenting, that evening, the
Nofit State Circus from Scotland:
It was a very physical display, unlike your usual circus. The audience stood and was moved around to be close to the action.
We left Rennes the next morning and soon found a dolman along the way:
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La Roche de Fees |
We were heading to Laval, an old city. On the way we found these in St. Berthevin:
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Allegorialle by Del'Aune |
Laval is home of the
Musee de l'Art Naif in the Vieux Chateaux. Outside were some sculptures:
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by Robert Buron |
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Beatrice de Gavre |
We learned that Laval was the birthplace of
Henri Rousseau:
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La Douanier Rousseau by Del'Aune |
Inside was a variety of primitive art from Rousseau:
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Le pont de Grenelle by Henri Rousseau, 1892 |
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Paysage by Henri Rousseau, 1905 |
To work by other French and international artists:
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Les Baigneuses by Josip Generalie, 1967 |
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Les centaures by Petar Grgec, 1977 |
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Bouquet d'arbres by Antun Bahunek, 1971 |
CLICK HERE FOR MORE.
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View of the River Mayenne from the chateau. |
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